Comfort: Length is the first thing to consider. Most stylists prefer shears that are5 " to 6" in length. The best way to measure the right size for you is to lay a pair of shears in your palm and make sure the blade tips don't extend far beyond your fingertips. Cutting with a pair that is too long can actually be very dangerous, and cutting with a pair that is too short will dull the shears quickly and will slow you down.
Size: Once you've decided on the length, the size, position and style of the finger holes is critical. Do you need a ring sizer to make the hole fit your fingers? How many holes are there? Is there a finger rest? Would you like a thumb swivel? What feels right to you? This is all a very subjective process and one that you need to pay close attention to.
Right or Left Handed: Most shears are designed for a right handed stylist. The difference between a right handed shear and a left handed one is actually very important. Scissor design puts the thumb in control of the bottom blade. In many cases a shear manufacturer will simply put the finger rest on the other finger hole and call it a left handed shear. But then the thumb will be controlling the top blade and that is far less effective.
Steel Quality: Type 440C, has the most carbon in it making it one of the strongest and is usually considered the most desirable in making anything that needs to hold an edge, shears, knives, medical instruments etc. Adding Cobalt and molybdenum increases the hardness of the steel and helps keep it's edge longer. Never buy a shear made from a lower grade of steel than 440C. Shears made from 440C steel usually are priced between $350 and $600.
Who you buy from: In general the shears you'll find in beauty supply stores are not made from high quality steel. Keep in mind, a good quality shear will cost an average of $400 if the price being offered is substantially less than that, the old rule of thumb "if it sounds too good to be true it probably is" applies. The best bet is to purchase shears from someone in person who can let you try them out in a real-life setting and provides a 30 day exchange policy and a lifetime warranty.
Cutting the way you want is only half the battle. Your shears need to feel good in your hand and not cause unnecessary fatigue. You must also understand the quality / price relationship. That relationship all comes down to trust. You'll never pay to have the steel quality checked by a lab, so you need to trust the company who tells you they use nothing but the finest quality steel. Make sure that your shear company offers a 30 day risk free return or exchange policy, a lifetime warranty and provides a financing plan as well and you'll be able to trust them to stand behind their products and stand with you in your career.
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